On the racetrack, in fact, it’s not a game: the San Martino bend, which runs downhill, and the Casato bend, which runs uphill, can become deadly traps. These trials have to be faced, therefore, by preparing the horse and the race strategy well; this is the moment when the jockey is chosen, also a protagonist, if less so than the horse. Not usually local, usually of a small size but courageous and robust and, above all, he has to be an exceptional horseman because the horse is ridden bareback, without a saddle, and there are serious risks if he falls.

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These jockeys are usually men, however there have been a few women; the last one rode for Aquila and was called “Rompicollo” (Breakneck) - every jockey, according to Tuscan custom, has a nickname. The night before the race, the great propitiatory dinner is held, with singing and toasts, and also the agreement of secret pacts between the districts, made by the captain of each district and the "mangini" with the aim of winning the Palio, but also deciding how to prevent the rival districts from winning.

The day of the Palio, after the final "provaccia" (though challenge), the air becomes tense and, when the big bell in the clock tower gives the signal, with the young people of the "comparsa" (show) wearing their splendid costumes, you can perceive the excitement everywhere. Each district racing in the Palio has their horse blessed - an unmissable moment where the "correttore" gives his blessing to the horse and the jockey and dismisses the latter with the ritual "go, and come back the winner!". Then everyone gives vent to their excitement with drum rolls and the waving of flags, among a crowd growing bigger by the moment. The atmosphere of expectation also grows more and more during the historic procession which precedes the Palio; all the districts parade slowly around, in their multicoloured costumes, and finally the “Carroccio” (carriage) enters, towed by four oxen of chianina race, carrying the flag ("il cencio") of the Palio which is greeted by thousands of waving handkerchiefs.

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After a wait which seems interminable, the horses exit from the "entrone" (entrance) of the Palazzo Pubblico and make their way to the departure ropes, amongst shouting and applause. The start ("mossa") is a fundamental moment; the order of entry between the ropes is secret and is revealed by the “mossiere” (starter) at the moment of departure. The first nine horses enter one after the other while the emotion grips your throat: a good place in the "mossa" can mean victory! It is not unusual that the horses play up and the departure has to be repeated several times, due partly to the jockey’s excitement and partly to the tension which reigns all around the “mossa”. The moment of departure is chosen by the tenth district, who sets off at a run and only then does the big rope, which holds back the horses, fall. They set off at incredible speed, with the jockeys hanging on to their necks, at a wild gallop. The three circuits of the racetrack are done in about a minute and a half - an incredible speed, so much so that those who are watching the Palio for the first time find it difficult to understand what’s going on. Even before the crack of a firecracker decrees the end of the race, the winning “contradaioli” (representatives of the winning district) enter the racetrack and run to get the "cencio" (flag) with the shout "daccelo, daccelo!" (give it to us!). There is a great riot of flags, because the winners are joined by their friends from the district, and it isn’t rare that in the meantime another jockey receives their appreciation in the form of punches. The "cencio", brought triumphantly into the winning district, is put on show in the local museum, and then the celebrations start, culminating in a magnificent dinner in which the winning horse is at the head of the table: they are celebrating but already thinking about next year’s Palio.

Spectators can get into the Piazza even after the start of the historic procession by using Via Giovanni Duprè which gets closed just a few minutes before the race. Inside the Piazza you can buy drinks, but be careful: it is often very hot (bring a hat!) and there aren’t any toilets!

HOW TO GET TO SIENA BY CAR

From the North:
Florence, Bologna: from the Raccordo Autostradale Siena-Florence, you can get to Siena from the A1 Motorway (Autostrada del Sole), taking the Florence Certosa exit.

From the South:

AROUND SIENA

From Siena you can easily reach:

1) San Gimignano - Volterra;
2) Monteoliveto - Montalcino - Pienza - Montepulciano;
3) Castellina in Chianti ,Castelli del Chianti and Radda in Chianti;

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